Power Wagon Registry

adeluca73 wrote:

nts007 wrote:It's looking great adeluca. I enjoy how you plan your changes systematically. And execute them cleanly. I with the remove graphics. And time for man sized tires

Copy--I'm leaning removing too, I just waited till it's all done first because once they're gone, they're gone, but just wanted to see it all together first. I'll remove this weekend.

I'm starting to get "little tire" insecurity... Didn't realize everyone noticed

35's and new wheels are next (either the new hybrid Nittos, Toyo R/T's, KO2, or Hankooks)

I think you mispelled 37's.

Reloaderguy wrote:I think you mispelled 37's.

Thought I read that wrong too

Looking good adeluca!

Reloaderguy wrote: ... My factory alignment was off considerably to the point I could see strange wear patterns developing. The steering felt really tight and took some effort in hard fast turns.

What was off on the alignment? What did you change it to? Did it help your driving experience? I have noticed what appears to be really tight steering as well as needing a bit of effort in hard turns. I dont notice it much until I drive my wifes Yukon... that freekin thing steers absolutely effortlessly compared to my truck.

Threadjack over

RamGentry wrote:

Reloaderguy wrote:I think you mispelled 37's.

Thought I read that wrong too

Damn spell check

14PowerWaggy wrote:Looks great! I vote to remove the side decals as well... Quick question... Which LineX did you go with? It doesn't look as textured or shiny as some others that I have seen... Also, did you cut out the center caps of the wheels? Is that in preparation of a free spin kit? Now all you need is some 37's...

Hey 14/15PWaggy--the Line-X was a custom blend they made up to match the Diamondback & WK sliders, I'll be back with the Egyptian this week to pick up my center caps & I'll find out what they used exactly. Don't think we can use free spin hubs with the CAD, unless There's something new out.

adeluca73 wrote:

14PowerWaggy wrote:Looks great! I vote to remove the side decals as well... Quick question... Which LineX did you go with? It doesn't look as textured or shiny as some others that I have seen... Also, did you cut out the center caps of the wheels? Is that in preparation of a free spin kit? Now all you need is some 37's...

Hey 14/15PWaggy--the Line-X was a custom blend they made up to match the Diamondback & WK sliders, I'll be back with the Egyptian this week to pick up my center caps & I'll find out what they used exactly. Don't think we can use free spin hubs with the CAD, unless There's something new out.

Got it! Thank you for the reply... Deleting all the chrome is next on my list as well... Truck is looking really good!

olyelr wrote:Looking good adeluca!

Reloaderguy wrote: ... My factory alignment was off considerably to the point I could see strange wear patterns developing. The steering felt really tight and took some effort in hard fast turns.

What was off on the alignment? What did you change it to? Did it help your driving experience? I have noticed what appears to be really tight steering as well as needing a bit of effort in hard turns. I dont notice it much until I drive my wifes Yukon... that freekin thing steers absolutely effortlessly compared to my truck.

Threadjack over

Excessive toe-in. Don set it to zero and the truck easier to stear.

Wheel caps painted & enameled. Side Power Wagon decals removed tonight. Looks better, agree with all your input!!!

Here's the finished pics with all decals removed & wheel center caps replaced & a pic of the Factor-55 HitchLink 2.5 I picked up a few months ago w/ 6.5 Ton shackle, it fits the class V receiver w/o the filler sleeve.

Get some black rims and bigger tires and that thing will look straight up badass man, good job.

Stickman wrote:Get some black rims and bigger tires and that thing will look straight up badass man, good job.

Thanks man...can't settle on a wheel yet. Want the TR beadlocks like 2Wags just put on, but $450/ea. Is steep. So either one of the AEV wheels or I might plastidip the stockers like you & Will did . Did you like the way they turned out? Durable? Pain to do?

adeluca73 wrote:

Stickman wrote:Get some black rims and bigger tires and that thing will look straight up badass man, good job.

Thanks man...can't settle on a wheel yet. Want the TR beadlocks like 2Wags just put on, but $450/ea. Is steep. So either one of the AEV wheels or I might plastidip the stockers like you & Will did . Did you like the way they turned out? Durable? Pain to do?

There are a lot of wheels on the markets that are every bit as good as the AEV. From what I've heard, AEV wheels are made by Wheel Pro who makes KMC XD's.

I'd love a set of TR beadlocks but I know if I bought them I'd end up wishing I bought a set of fakelocks. My last set of beadlocks were great offroad and terrible on road.

It was good for the money and time it took, held up great and was very easy to apply. Only down side I found was gravel dust sticks to it quite a bit.

MOD: OEM Wheel blackout
PRODUCT: Plastidip (black) & Metallizer (Gunmetal)
MFGR: dip your car.com ( bought wheel kit: 4x cans black & 3x cans metallizer)
COST: $55
TIME : 3-4 hrs

This was a great mod. Easy to do, but a little time consuming to do right. I researched the best way to do this from videos of shops that do entire vehicles & then set aside an afternoon to work on it. Here's the steps:

1. I used a degreaser on the wheels to remove all dirt, grime, brake dust
2. Wiped down with clean damp cloth
3. Taped off valve stem
4. Used plastic grocery bags, cut off handles, then cut open along both seams, and fished the bags through the spokes (2/wheel needed) & used a paint stick to tuck bags around calipers & rotors. Do not let bags rest against back of wheels or they could pull the dip off when you remove them
5. Used silicone tire shine to wipe along tire next to rim (don't get on rim) to aid in removing of over spray on tires.
6. Start laying a base coat of plastidip, recommend using a spray paint gun attachment, reduce hand fatigue & helps get even strokes & minimizes running. Concentrate on getting good coverage around edge of rim.
7. Move from one wheel yo next. Light coats are best. I let each coat dry 15-20 min before going to the next coat.
8. Repeat until satisfied. I put on 5 coats of black & only used 2 cans.
9. Let completely dry. Switch to the metallizer & apply coats to get your desired look. For me it was 2 solid coats, 1 can total used of the gun metal metalizer.
10. Let sit overnight, remove bags, inspect

The metalizer really brings this from an ok poor man's black out to a top end custom looking wheel. I'm really impressed how it turned out. The metallizer is also the recommended top coat to protect & harden the plastidip to give it a durable finish. I also put the metallizer on the center caps I had painted black/red enamel. It darkened up the caps & blended it with the look of the wheel. For $55 all in, I'd say if you like the PW wheels but not the polished Aluminum, give this a try, it comes in dozens of colors & is easy to peel & remove if you screw up or don't like the color. I have 2 cans of each left over, so plenty to do touch ups with. I'm sticking with this for now until I decide on the beadlocks I want once I move out west in a few years.

That looks awesome. Nice work.

Playing cards stuck between tires and wheels work good also.

Hate to tell ya, but it would look WAY better with tinted front windows and bigger tires....

Looking good!

Will wrote:Playing cards stuck between tires and wheels work good also.

Hate to tell ya, but it would look WAY better with tinted front windows and bigger tires....

Windows are next. Tires soon. Then shocks & boogies.

That really looks great. Will it hold up to a tire change?

That looks really good, I like that metalizer, makes them pop for sure.

Reloaderguy wrote:That really looks great. Will it hold up to a tire change?

The edges may get nicked up, it's easy enough to repair though.

Cerakoted wheels on my old truck. As long as the folks changing tires were careful I had no issues. Gravel roads were the only real problem I ran into. If I didn't log so many gravel miles or our back roads dirt/sand/anything else, I would have already done it again.

They look great. Nice work.

Reloaderguy wrote:That really looks great. Will it hold up to a tire change?

No it wont but its just the lip that will get chewed up. The simple solution is taking an exacto knife to the wheel lip corner and peeling it away and then respray. Easy peasy

Alright, wheres the tire pics?!