adeluca73's Build - 2014 POWER WAGON SLT - FLAME RED TWO TONE

[adeluca73]

Just drove out and picked up my White Knuckle sliders in Apple Valley Ca. Those guys are gnarly. Crazy how much steel is in that place! Funky little off the path thing...And then the doors open up and its like holy crap!
I was in and out with some stories on how they got on the map in 15 min.
Natilie on the phone was very helpful and extreme knowledgeable.
Cant wait till they are on!!!

That's awesome--congrats on the new sliders, they sound like a big operation, did you get them coated?

[Black Pearl]

Two dudes in a mid size shop w a crap load of stuff in it. They are swamped with orders.
Yea coated. They are very neatly wrapped and they were very careful putting them in the bed. I standing there thinking.....Im going to scratch the hell out of those things, just toss em in there!

[Reloaderguy]

Link doesn't work, but if it's Torque Wrenchs--I have 4: 10in-lb to 250 ft-lb . I dont have a 6" deep 44mm socket though & that's what you'd need to set the sector shaft extension to 185 ft-lb, so I used a 3" crescent with a 2' pipe on the end and yanked like hell.

Link works for me but is a 1 7/8" crows foot. You can get them in 44mm too.

Ha, yes I do, first time I've seen those. Would have to adjust/recalculate the torque based on the centerline length of the extension.

I was wondering about that. Is the reduction in torque linear? I mean, is there a percentage we could just add to the torque wrench to get the correct value? If so, how much?

[Will]

Hahahaha sorry will! I'll keep it zipped from now on

Thought about this again messing with the factory one today...I want new coils, shackles and the swaybar, holding out on tires...

Expensive lust (list) you got there Will

You don't understand, it's THAT much better than stock. Haha

[adeluca73]

I was wondering about that. Is the reduction in torque linear? I mean, is there a percentage we could just add to the torque wrench to get the correct value? If so, how much?

It's a simple moment equation. If F = force applied to tool, T1= indicated torque on tool, L = length from center of pt of application to centerline of socket, L' = length of extension to centerline of torque application, T2 = desired torque applied to fastener, then :

T1=FxL & T2=Fx(L+L')
F=T1/L & F=T2/(L+L')

Equating expressions for F:

T1/L=T2/(L+L') & solving for the reduction due to the extension:
T1=(T2xL)/(L+L')

So if we want 185ft-LBf at the sector shaft, the torque wrench is 2' & the crow's foot is 6", then we'd dial in 148ft-Lb on the indicator to get 185ft-Lbf at the fastener.

[Reloaderguy]

The crows foot is more like one inch.

[adeluca73]

The crows foot is more like one inch.

Yeah-just threw in numbers to populate the example for the derivation.

[adeluca73]

Got some things on order to keep me busy this spring:

1. Truxx 1.5" PW specific front level kit
2. 2x power hop shocks & hardware (thanks to MOPAR or Waldo for taking the 1st plunge)
3. HID Hi and Low beam replacement CANBUS kits

4. Have a custom shop lined up to do some external body work as well, still working out the final details

5. New rubber and possibly wheels later this summer

[14PowerWaggy]

Got some things on order to keep me busy this spring:

1. Truxx 1.5" PW specific front level kit
2. 2x power hop shocks & hardware (thanks to MOPAR or Waldo for taking the 1st plunge)
3. HID Hi and Low beam replacement CANBUS kits

4. Have a custom shop lined up to do some external body work as well, still working out the final details

5. New rubber and possibly wheels later this summer

What is #2?

[04Ram2500Hemi]

Got some things on order to keep me busy this spring:

1. Truxx 1.5" PW specific front level kit
2. 2x power hop shocks & hardware (thanks to MOPAR or Waldo for taking the 1st plunge)
3. HID Hi and Low beam replacement CANBUS kits

4. Have a custom shop lined up to do some external body work as well, still working out the final details

5. New rubber and possibly wheels later this summer

#4 sounds interesting...

[adeluca73]

Got some things on order to keep me busy this spring:

1. Truxx 1.5" PW specific front level kit
2. 2x power hop shocks & hardware (thanks to MOPAR or Waldo for taking the 1st plunge)
3. HID Hi and Low beam replacement CANBUS kits

4. Have a custom shop lined up to do some external body work as well, still working out the final details

5. New rubber and possibly wheels later this summer

What is #2?

It's the diff housing shock to reduce wheel hop, adding two more with extended hardware so turning it into 3 shocks, or 3x the dampening.

[14PowerWaggy]

Got some things on order to keep me busy this spring:

1. Truxx 1.5" PW specific front level kit
2. 2x power hop shocks & hardware (thanks to MOPAR or Waldo for taking the 1st plunge)
3. HID Hi and Low beam replacement CANBUS kits

4. Have a custom shop lined up to do some external body work as well, still working out the final details

5. New rubber and possibly wheels later this summer

What is #2?

It's the diff housing shock to reduce wheel hop, adding two more with extended hardware so turning it into 3 shocks, or 3x the dampening.

Got it... Thank you...

[adeluca73]

Just priced out a set of Gunmetal Gray Hutchinson RockMonster Wheels & a set of Interco SSR's in 35x10.5--yikes! A little over $4K total delivered.

Wheels is 41lbs, tire is 76lbs. Also, you have to specify which tire you're going to mount them on before ordering to get the right rim width. So how much will this back spacing change the look of the truck, I really don't want wheels sticking out of the fender:

Hutchinson P/N: WA-1175
Size: 17 x 8.5"
Offset: 0.39 in [9.9 mm]
Bolt pattern: 8H - 6.5"BCD
Lug style: 9/16 60 degrees conical nut
Hub bore:4.774" [121.3 mm]
Load Rating: 3200 lb [1451.5 kg]
Weight: 41 lb [18.6 kg]
Construction: Cast aluminum alloy
Balance Type: Adhesive
Backspacing: 5.28" [134.1 mm]

SSR:
35X10.50R17LT SSR-42R 76 10 3 21/32 9.0 35.3 11.60 617 17x7-9 80 3640

[Reloaderguy]

Have you run Interco tires before?

[Colibri]

Those are the same wheels I'm running, when I was on 35" toyo mt's they were just a hair past flush with the stock pw flares. They do not have a flatbill bro look at all.

Best price I was able to find was through high impact. I've bought several sets of beadlocks from them over the years. Fantastic wheels. As far as specifying what tire you intend to run, the wheel is the same, it's the rubber beadlock ring inside they make in two different widths. Don't forget to order the tpms brackets if you wish to keep that system functioning and an extra couple o-rings would be a good idea.

No normal tire shop will touch these so expect to do all your own maintenance and mounting and dismounting etc. Use balance beads inside the tire and you'll never need to have them balanced for the life of the tire or have to worry about losing weights off-road. Also get a set of tyre-pliers for when you have to disassemble them. It will make your life exponentially easier.

I am a fan of interco tires, but generally for trail only vehicles! I have had bias ply irocs on a jeep for years and have ridden in many a interco equipped rig. Consider rethinking your tire choice for a daily driver. You're overthinking the tall skinny tire thing imho, and you can get much much better rubber on there without breaking the bank.


http://high-impact.net/dot_compliant_beadlocks.htm
http://www.extremeoutback.com/product/3 ... 1-000.html
http://innovativebalancing.com

[Reloaderguy]

My last set of swampers was my LAST set of swampers (on a road legal vehicle). 35's will be great on your truck but I don't think you'll get any performance improvement with a 10.5" verses a regular 12.5".

On a more positive note, HID's are worth the money. Just make sure you're patient with the high beams because they don't turn on instantly bright. They take a couple of seconds to warm up.

[Low_Sky]

I was wondering about that. Is the reduction in torque linear? I mean, is there a percentage we could just add to the torque wrench to get the correct value? If so, how much?

It's a simple moment equation. If F = force applied to tool, T1= indicated torque on tool, L = length from center of pt of application to centerline of socket, L' = length of extension to centerline of torque application, T2 = desired torque applied to fastener, then :

T1=FxL & T2=Fx(L+L')
F=T1/L & F=T2/(L+L')

Equating expressions for F:

T1/L=T2/(L+L') & solving for the reduction due to the extension:
T1=(T2xL)/(L+L')

So if we want 185ft-LBf at the sector shaft, the torque wrench is 2' & the crow's foot is 6", then we'd dial in 148ft-Lb on the indicator to get 185ft-Lbf at the fastener.

Instead of doing math, you could just turn the crows foot 90-degrees to the end of the torque wrench.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[adeluca73]

Have you run Interco tires before?

Yeah, I put Trxus STS on my Xterra after I beefed up the suspension---they were great tires. The SSR's have had great long term reviews on every terrain type, conducted by some reputable outfits, I consider it a good choice in a 35"+ tire for a non-DD truck. My only concern is they weigh as much as a lot of 37's...

[adeluca73]

I was wondering about that. Is the reduction in torque linear? I mean, is there a percentage we could just add to the torque wrench to get the correct value? If so, how much?

It's a simple moment equation. If F = force applied to tool, T1= indicated torque on tool, L = length from center of pt of application to centerline of socket, L' = length of extension to centerline of torque application, T2 = desired torque applied to fastener, then :

T1=FxL & T2=Fx(L+L')
F=T1/L & F=T2/(L+L')

Equating expressions for F:

T1/L=T2/(L+L') & solving for the reduction due to the extension:
T1=(T2xL)/(L+L')

So if we want 185ft-LBf at the sector shaft, the torque wrench is 2' & the crow's foot is 6", then we'd dial in 148ft-Lb on the indicator to get 185ft-Lbf at the fastener.

Instead of doing math, you could just turn the crows foot 90-degrees to the end of the torque wrench.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But what fun would that be...

[adeluca73]

My last set of swampers was my LAST set of swampers (on a road legal vehicle). 35's will be great on your truck but I don't think you'll get any performance improvement with a 10.5" verses a regular 12.5".

On a more positive note, HID's are worth the money. Just make sure you're patient with the high beams because they don't turn on instantly bright. They take a couple of seconds to warm up.

I get the hesitancy in running the old school off-road Interco models on the street daily, but the SSR is a new design meant to be an on-road OEM replacement tire, plus my PW IS NOT a DD vehicle. I am a old school fan on the slender profile , in both looks & performance, we run slender profiles on our military rigs, & I'm a beliver, it's worth it to me to at least give it a go.

[Colibri]

Cool, I'll be looking forward to hear your take on the new tires. I didn't realize interco was making an oem grade road tire these days.

Can't go wrong with the hutchinsons!

[adeluca73]

Cool, I'll be looking forward to hear your take on the new tires. I didn't realize interco was making an oem grade road tire these days.

Can't go wrong with the hutchinsons!

Copy. I may just run the SSR's on the PW rim first & evaluate them as a potential recurring purchase--want to minimize # of things changing at once. I really like the simplicity in design of the Hutchinson Bead lock, doesn't seem like a lot to go wrong w/ them other than unseating the rubber gasket.

[adeluca73]

Front/Rear 4.88 R&P gears + custom master install kits for both on the way...

[Reloaderguy]

What brand? That is next on my list. You may as well skip to 37" tires.

[adeluca73]

Yukon--got a no questions asked lifetime warranty for $20/ea(shipping cost) & they cover the repair too. There is an AAM rear 4.88, it was about $50 or so more, but no warranty on that, so I stuck w/ Yukon. Got the Timken front & rear master install kit too w/ the conversion bearing for the Dodge 11.5 carrier housing.