adeluca73's Build - 2014 POWER WAGON SLT - FLAME RED TWO TONE

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olyelr
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by olyelr » Fri May 06, 2016 12:12 am

adeluca73 wrote:
Colibri wrote:Not sure where you're going to rent the spring compressors, but if you find someplace with one big enough for our coils please share where you got it! I tried 3 or 4 different places a few years back and no one had an appropriately sized tool. Good luck AD can't wait to hear your thoughts on the gears :rockon:
Copy. Maybe there's not one big enough, I figured there must be. I may just rent what's available and augment with some semi-rated ratchet straps to compress enough to get the coil out of the bucket.
Why do you need a spring compressor? I have swapped coils/spacers many a time on dodge trucks and have never used one before. Are the new trucks any different? Usually disconnecting the sway bar is all that's needed.

And the strap thing, if needed... hook the strap up before you take the weight of the truck off the coils and it will be pre compressed.
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Fri May 06, 2016 10:50 am

Colibri wrote:Strange, these axles are relatively easier to work on than Dana Spicer equivalents. Guess people just aren't as familiar with them? Good luck with Babbitt! Should have some more pep in your step soon!
There is a thread on Cummins Forum from a member that did an E-Locker install on the new front axle. He said the CAD and the locker were a challenge making them more difficult than the older axle. I am planning on doing a gear swap and have a feeling I am going to run into the same problem as Dr. D. Years ago I had a shop in SLC mess up a gear swap in a brand new Jeep with arguably simpler axles and I don't want to repeat that with a vehicle worth three times as much.

ETA: Here is a link to that thread. I think the users notes regarding special tools should be considered when discussing the gear swap with installers.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2013- ... stall.html
Last edited by Reloaderguy on Fri May 06, 2016 10:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Fri May 06, 2016 10:51 am

olyelr wrote:
adeluca73 wrote:
Colibri wrote:Not sure where you're going to rent the spring compressors, but if you find someplace with one big enough for our coils please share where you got it! I tried 3 or 4 different places a few years back and no one had an appropriately sized tool. Good luck AD can't wait to hear your thoughts on the gears :rockon:
Copy. Maybe there's not one big enough, I figured there must be. I may just rent what's available and augment with some semi-rated ratchet straps to compress enough to get the coil out of the bucket.
Why do you need a spring compressor? I have swapped coils/spacers many a time on dodge trucks and have never used one before. Are the new trucks any different? Usually disconnecting the sway bar is all that's needed.

And the strap thing, if needed... hook the strap up before you take the weight of the truck off the coils and it will be pre compressed.
Disconnect the track bar too; the springs should come out without a spring compressor.
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by Will » Fri May 06, 2016 10:55 am

Mine will come out of the bucket as is, I need straps...
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by olyelr » Tue May 10, 2016 12:21 am

Well what the heck, you got the leveling kit installed yet rrrrrrrrrrrr whhhhaaaaaaattttttttt.
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by nts007 » Tue May 10, 2016 12:53 am

For the lvl kit just jack up frame. Remove wheels. Allow axle to droop. Unhook sway are and track bar. Install spacers since springs will nearly fall out. Reverse process. Back on wheels. Re centre steering wheel using drag link adjustment. Pretty easy. 2-3 hrs in the driveway by yourself. Make sure to unhook bracket that holds brake lines to axle too. The lines are long enough as long as that clamp is off. I'd help if you were closer
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by adeluca73 » Wed May 11, 2016 12:21 am

olyelr wrote:Well what the heck, you got the leveling kit installed yet rrrrrrrrrrrr whhhhaaaaaaattttttttt.
No--my parents made a trip down from Michigan to watch my son's ball games this weekend. So no truck work, but we managed to get in a few rounds of skeet between games, so not a total waste

Barring no issues with the gear swap on Friday, I'll tackle the level kit this weekend and install the triple anti-hop shocks
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Gear installer

Post by adeluca73 » Wed May 11, 2016 12:31 am

Reloaderguy wrote: There is a thread on Cummins Forum from a member that did an E-Locker install on the new front axle. He said the CAD and the locker were a challenge making them more difficult than the older axle. I am planning on doing a gear swap and have a feeling I am going to run into the same problem as Dr. D. Years ago I had a shop in SLC mess up a gear swap in a brand new Jeep with arguably simpler axles and I don't want to repeat that with a vehicle worth three times as much.

ETA: Here is a link to that thread. I think the users notes regarding special tools should be considered when discussing the gear swap with installers.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2013- ... stall.html
Agree 100 on selecting the right installer. After the first one backed out, I quizzed the heck out of the second outfit I found. They knew their Sh@t, they knew about the tools, the baseline Pinion depth (it's .006) for the AAM 2-cut, and were familiar with the CAD and the e-lockers. Plus their website shows essentially racing rigs and rock crawlers, so they're not doing gear rebuilds on Honda Civics, Minivans, or Corolla's. Hopefully they can get it done in one day, or else it's an expensive cab ride back from Columbus on Friday night :run:
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Spacer

Post by adeluca73 » Wed May 11, 2016 12:31 am

nts007 wrote:For the lvl kit just jack up frame. Remove wheels. Allow axle to droop. Unhook sway are and track bar. Install spacers since springs will nearly fall out. Reverse process. Back on wheels. Re centre steering wheel using drag link adjustment. Pretty easy. 2-3 hrs in the driveway by yourself. Make sure to unhook bracket that holds brake lines to axle too. The lines are long enough as long as that clamp is off. I'd help if you were closer
I know you would.,,, :cheers:
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gears today

Post by adeluca73 » Fri May 13, 2016 9:33 am

Dropped her off at 0800... Let's hope this goes well... ;)
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by Colibri » Fri May 13, 2016 9:35 am

Fingers crossed, good luck man!
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4.88's complete

Post by adeluca73 » Fri May 13, 2016 11:44 pm

It's done---took a little bit longer than planned. Cleaned locker magnets & checked function after new gears were installed. Thanks to reloadederguy for digging up that nugget about purchasing a replacement inner axle seal, I called the installer yesterday & discussed it & gave him my Vin, he ordered one in case, & it was definitely required. He used all the sleeves, shims, rings, & bearings from both master install kits, & even did some custom machining to ease the fit of the special pinion conversion bearing required for the dodge 11.5's. He nailed the pattern & backlash 1st go. I drove the 70miles home from Columbus in 3 segments on back roads w/ 30-40min cool down between to break in properly. They are quieter than the OEM 4.10 gears, I could hear a lot more tire hum & exhaust drone than before. It will walk off in 1st & reverse w/o breaks, and it has a noticeable increase in pep. I averaged 17.3mpg home, but did notice higher RPM's--on the way there this morning on I-70 I was set at 72mph @ 2000RPM, tonight at 57mph I was at 2000RPM.

The one bad thing is the installer said the first joke of an outfit that tried to do the install stripped & rounded off the head on the 7/32 Allen head attaching the locker plug flange to the diff,which he said took over an hr w/ a drill, torch, & hammer to break free, they also broke off the red tab on the locker by-pass connector plug--MF'rs, never told me they did that when I picked it up last week, a-holes . Is it ok to just drive around w/o the tab locking the plug together?
Last edited by adeluca73 on Sat May 14, 2016 9:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by Stickman » Sat May 14, 2016 12:50 am

It shouldn't, they still clip in, that's there just to prevent an accident if they do somehow come unplugged. I broke both of mine when I was installing my bypass kit, just put a little di-electric grease on them and popped them in. Haven't had any issues yet.
Last edited by Stickman on Sat May 14, 2016 10:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by FirerescuePW » Sat May 14, 2016 9:07 am

Mine has been broken since about '08
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Sat May 14, 2016 10:24 am

My bypass kit doesn't have the red clips.
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3x Power Hop Dampeners

Post by adeluca73 » Wed May 18, 2016 12:31 am

MOD: Install 2 additional Bilstien power hop shocks on both sides of the single OEM installed shock.

MFGR: Bilstein, part # DAMPER-REAR AXLE - MOPAR (68187985AB)
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/sho ... ly=1260879

VENDOR: http://www.factorymoparparts.net/oe-mop ... 68187985AB

COST: $115/ea

PURPOSE: In conjunction with the design of the 5-link coil sprung read end, the center shock is designed to assist in the reduction of wheel-hop, and also to a lesser degree, the reduction of axle wrap, which is predominately eliminated kinematically by the design of the 5-link coil suspension. Under acceleration, the rear suspension compresses and the wheels travel upward. To keep the load on the wheels, the rear suspension power hop damper pushes back on the rear suspension to maintain traction at the wheels. It slows down axle flex, which assists in preventing damage to the rear driveshaft when the assembly, under extreme or sudden loading and unloading (wheel hop), tries to push over into a "nose down" angle that exceeds the limits of the U joints, especially when fully extended at full droop. It aids in keeping the driveshaft and rear pinion angle within an acceptable range throughout the full length of suspension travel, especially when there is a large suspension deflection.

INSTALL: Kind of a giant PIA actually. The location made it difficult to work on, especially in at night on your back, but it's doable. Since my truck is nearly 2yrs old now, the stock bolts were pretty hard stuck. PB Blaster and 15min wait made the removal of the stock bolts easier. The original shock expanded beyond the mounts, and had to be compressed to reinstall. I installed all three shocks at the frame mount bracket first. Had to purchase 2x : M14-2.0 pitch x180mm 10.9 hardness Hex Head bolts to replace the stock bolts, but you can reuse the stock nut plates. Coated the bolts in anti-seize, put large washers on the ends to replicate the effect of the bracket ends, and installed all three shocks on the frame mount and tightened ½ way.

The diff housing side was more challenging. There's far less access room, and the new shocks are belted and too short, and the original is free and too long. I tried to catch the first shock with the bolt through the bracket as I cut the retaining strap, but I missed, so it expanded beyond the bracket too. I used two ratchet straps to cinch down the front and center shocks, then placed the second bolt and washer through the eyes, and retried my hand at catching the third shock with the bolt as I cut its restraining strap. And wouldn't you know it, I did it by blind luck, since you can't really see the eyelet of that 3rd shock, I did it by feel, and managed to catch the eyelet with the bolt as I cut the strap. All that was left was to tighten down both bolts all the way, and coat in Fluid Film.
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Compressing to get to length
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Just need that last one
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by olyelr » Thu May 19, 2016 7:25 pm

Looking good. Now get the leveling kit on and report back!
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3x Power Hop Dampener

Post by adeluca73 » Thu May 19, 2016 11:40 pm

Copy, thanks. I'll get on it soon, when I get 3-4 hrs free time. If not, I'll take it to a local muffler /suspension shop near the house & they said they'll do it for $100. :cheers:
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Appearance Changes

Post by adeluca73 » Sun May 22, 2016 10:24 pm

The Black-Out has started...

Removed the bed & rear decals today. Heat gun,degreaser, & goo-gone + 2 Hrs.

Having a detail shop doing a complete (well near) black-out of the wagon after Memorial Day. They quoted between 2-3 weeks total. Pics will be coming when complete. Holding out on the doing the wheels, that was quoted at $2K to powder coat black & the center caps red. I can get the AEV wheels or Hutchinson Bead locks for $1K shipped. Saved $900+ doing the decal removal myself from what the shop quoted --7Hrs to remove & 2Hrs to machine polish :cash: :cash:
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by Stickman » Tue May 24, 2016 1:06 am

So what all is getting blacked out?
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by 04Ram2500Hemi » Tue May 24, 2016 10:00 am

Stickman wrote:So what all is getting blacked out?
That's my question too.
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by 2011TXPowerWagon » Tue May 24, 2016 1:59 pm

Been thinking about removing all decals but scared that the paint will be faded

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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by Will » Tue May 24, 2016 2:44 pm

2011TXPowerWagon wrote:Been thinking about removing all decals but scared that the paint will be faded

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Less chance on a silver truck, plus you can buy another decal, pick the cheapest and take a look underneath. However, the longer you wait, the bigger the chance!! :D
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by adeluca73 » Tue May 24, 2016 2:46 pm

2011TXPowerWagon wrote:Been thinking about removing all decals but scared that the paint will be faded

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Can't tell any faded areas on mine. However, if you hit the bed with optimum detailer and look from the side, you can slightly tell the difference where the Opticoat was applied compared to the area under the decals. Can't tell looking straight ahead 90deg, but you can tell a slight texture difference from an obtuse angle
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Re: TD's 2014 Red PW Build Thread

Post by adeluca73 » Tue May 24, 2016 2:56 pm

04Ram2500Hemi wrote:
Stickman wrote:So what all is getting blacked out?
That's my question too.
Removed all the splash decals and the rear PW splash decal, but I left the PW words along the F/R lower doors for now + blacking out bumpers (F/R) + grill + bug deflector in Line-x, blacking out all existing chrome badging/emblems, smoke marker lights, powder-coating the wheels (but may hold off for AEV's instead), adding the block Laramie PW emblem in black across the back, and adding some red flare to a few spots--the idea I'm going for is similar to the 2017 concept PW--aside from the hideous RAM on the grill and tailgate--I like that appearance a lot. It will look similar to the reverse of Stickman's Black/Red combo.

I think mixing my red 2014 grill w/ the 2017 black-out look + a few classy red flourishes will look great, reduce the maintenance effort required to satisfy my anal chrome polish fetish to remove all the bugs and junk from the chrome, and the Line-X will add some abrasion resistance, and tie in nice with my rock sliders & Diamond Back cover.
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