Power Wagon Registry

What year is your truck? If a 2003-13 do you have factory control arms?

Baofengs are no longer able to handle GMRS. The FCC got pissy about their out-of-band programmability and all new Baofengs by law must stick within the official 2M and 70cm bands. Whether or not you can actually still get an out of band one I don’t know. Not like the law stopped ,uh... those other p...

Double checking for placement is a good idea. Buying lights and then asking where several different lights should go is a bad idea. That should be known before buying. Having multiple brands of lights on a truck and not knowing where to put them is a red flag. Lights are easy to dismiss as something...

Since you aren’t going high speed and you have lights picked out before you have placement figured out, I’d go with what the others suggest. Not to knock you, but buying lights and then asking where to put them is a terrible approach. Lights serve a dedicated purpose. Color, intensity, lenses, place...

Newer is better. I see all the time guys say their 2005-09 is the best because of some minor things, while the truck is burning to the ground behind them and they’re lying on the ground with a broken back because their grab handle ripped out while they were fixing the arcing door wiring harness that...

There’s a member in one of the Facebook groups that I believe is a parts manager. He has been hooking people up with the drag link as part of the recall. Unfortunately I don’t remember his name, but you might contact a dealer and see if they will give you a 19 link for the recall.

Diesels and power wagons have always shared front axles. The diesels have the CAD system.

Typically that light is the transfer case position sensor OffroadTreksvis referring to. Sometimes it’s a delayed shift of the CAD collar. This problem is figured out.

I just put a set on my truck. Only 50 miles on them. They’re louder than a silent road tire, but pretty quiet. Ride quality is pretty good. Look good, nice tread. I heard a few solid reviews from people I trust to run them as a winter/shoulder tire and that is why I got them. The limited selection o...

Start high and work your way down. If you get the same patch at 45 and 55 it is because you’re already at full contact at 55 and need to go higher until you lose contact. At the point you get full contact, drop the pressure a few pounds to share the load across the tread, and run that and see how it...

There’s definitely some options then if that’s how you will be using it. Yes I’m a dealer/installer for Thuren, and owner of Dethloff Mfg. Whoever you want to go through, feel free to shoot me an email and I can give some better info. Shocks, boogies and swaybar are some things that merit a little m...

2.5+ performance shocks with appropriate valving will make a huge improvement in bottom-out resistance. I’d do shocks and then see if you need boogies. I ran for years with stock bumps on my 3.0/2.5 bypasses because I almost never ‘found bottom’.

The AT2’s don’t have a great reputation. I think you can do a lot better. I’ve heard solid feedback on the Hankook Dynapro MT in snow and ice. You can also sipe your tires but snow use tires by design are best

I dream that some day there will be more customers like you. Yes you pretty much nailed everything! That suspension and wheel combo is going to be solid. You’ll need to trim the plastic fender liner and maybe a pinch of the bumper corner and flare to clear 37’s fully. Not a big deal on any of that. ...

It’s not the attachment that’s e issue, it’s that anywhere you have a good point to attach doesn’t have internal structure to support it. If you put a rib inside the bumper where the bull bar should mount, you block the bolts to install the wings.

Factory Duratracs are a very different tire from consumer Duratracs. If you buy a set of them, you are getting a better tire than what came on the truck, in almost every way. The factory ones are very weak, have poorer wet traction and don’t ride as well as the consumer Duratracs. That's good to kn...

A narrower rim causes more sidewalk bulge and creates more retention of the bed, and more tire compliance to terrain. A wider rim causes a more natural contact patch of the tire tread to the ground. It’s all in what you want it to do. I run 37x12.5r17 on my 8.0” wheels and I like them. They’ve perfo...

You’re having the same noise with all new trans and t case? Either the trans programming is wacky, the shift lever is mis adjusted, or those parts were not replaced.

Thanks for the input damage wagon, do you have any experience with cooper discover STT pro? I really like the look and reviews on the tire. But even my factory wranglers have been decent to me. Not sure which way I’m going to go yet. Not personally but I’ve heard good things about both the Pro and ...

Factory Duratracs are a very different tire from consumer Duratracs. If you buy a set of them, you are getting a better tire than what came on the truck, in almost every way. The factory ones are very weak, have poorer wet traction and don’t ride as well as the consumer Duratracs.

I tried to figure out a bull bar for it. I’m sure it’s doable, but to me the bull bar concept needs to be pretty serious in structural terms. The bumper was not designed for it and it would take some work to make a legitimate bull bar that will work.

You can run up to 37’s on your stock wheels. No need to go to new wheels. A better wheel offset does help but isn’t necessary if you run a 37x12.5R17 tire; anything wider and you might want the better wheel offset or you might not care. Load Range doesn’t really tell you anything technical. Load Ind...

On 3rd gen trucks the radiator / condenser layout is kind of odd. Are you sure you aren’t just getting the condenser too hot?? If it’s on long pulls where things get hit, even if the engine thermostat is keeping the coolant happy, you might be keeping the refrigerant too hot in the condenser to let ...

Man I’ve never noticed my tailgate rattling or anything and there’s definitely room for movement - lots of cracked spot welds around it. You could use some gasketing foam to fill the gap and quiet it down.

It’s not really that the engine doesn’t have the power, it’s axle hop and trans slippage. An auto trans, low rotating mass engine, and vehicle with a lot of articulation is a safe candidate. Versus a diesel, manual trans, with aftermarket control arms and 3500 leafs, is a dangerous candidate that go...

Yeah really no downside to trussing the front correctly.

Bending the axle is somewhat common if you push the truck hard. Twisting the tubes really is rare. Hence, if you’re going to weld the tubes, just truss it. You’re already doing half the work.